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Advantages of Hyaluronic Acid and Its Combination with Other Bioactive Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals

Acer saccharum phenolic compounds (maplexins, ginnalins) [134,135]increases the intracellular ceramide level
stimulates the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes
maintains thehomeostasis of the epidermis
antioxidant capacity [134,136,137]* NAhnfeltia concinna
(red algae)polysaccharides (carrageenan, agar), amino acids, minerals, vitamins, trace elements [138,139,140]antioxidant capacity, anti-wrinkle, skin-whitening (suppresses the melanin production), skin moisturizing [139,140,141,142]not toxic in topical applications
possible irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions [142]Alaria esculenta
(brown algae)polyphenols, diterpenoids, fatty acids, polysaccharides, fucosterol, fucoxhantin (e.g., retinoic acid), amino acids, minerals, vitamins, trace elements [143,144,145]hyperpigmentation amelioration
increases skin firmness and elasticity
stimulates collagen and keratin synthesis, reducing the progerin production (increased in aged skin) of ‘aged’ fibroblasts
skin-whitening, antioxidant capacity [142,143,146,147]
anti-cellulite and antiedema activity [142,148,149,150]possible local irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions [142]Aloe sp.
(Aloe barbadensis)antraquinones, polysaccharides, phenolic compounds, organic acids [151,152,153,154]antimicrobial activity [155,156]
antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-pyrotic [156,157,158]
improves skin moisture and water retention in the SC [153,156,157,159,160]phototoxicity, eczema, contact dermatitis [151,152] Amaranthus caudatus amino-acids, proteins, amylopectin, minerals, vitamins (vitamin A, E, K), fibers, essential fatty acids, triterpenes (squalene) [161,162]antioxidant capacity, moisturizing, skin hydration, suppressing the pigmentation [162,163,164]* N Angelica keiskei coumarins, terpens, phenolic compounds [165,166,167,168]antioxidant capacity, astringent, emollient, skin conditioning and protecting, skin whitening and lightening, sunlight protection [165]* N Arnica montana fatty acids (palmitic, linoleic, myristic), essential oil, triterpenic alcohols, sugars, phytosterols, phenol acids, tannins, choline, inulin, flavonoids, carotenoids, coumarins, sesquiterpene lactones [169,170]anti-inflammatory effect [158,171]
reduces the ecchymosis and oedema [158]contact dermatitis [169,172]
rarely ocular irritation [170] Artemia salina diguanosine-tetraphosphate, D-myo-inosite-1,4,5-triphosphate, proteins, glucan [173]stimulates skin regeneration, strengthens the immune system of the skin, sustains epidermal cell proliferation, anti-ageing (inhibiting the cells senescence, stimulating the collagen expression) and photo-protection effect [173]* N Bambusa arundinacea flavonoids, phenolic compounds, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, 8-C-glucosyl apigenin, luteolin derivatives [174]antioxidant capacity, anti-ageing, photo-protection, skin pigmentation modulating effect, anti-allergic effect (inhibiting the production of IgE and lymphocytes) [174]* N Calendula officinalis triterpenes, polyphenolic compounds, polysaccharides, vitamin C, tocopherols, quinones, carotenoids saponins, sterols [175,176,177,178]anti-inflammatory effect [175,179]
cell rejuvenation effect [179,180]
skin smoothing and softening effect [179]
prevents skin alteration and early ageing (improving the skin elasticity) [176,180,181]
anti-irritant, anti-psoriatic and callus treating [158]
stimulates the regeneration and epithelisation of wounded skin [175,179,180,181]
antioxidant capacity [175,176,179,180]
antimicrobial activity [155,179]rare sensitization or allergic contact reactions [169,175,182]Camelia sp.
(C. sinensis,
C. japonica)polyphenols, catechins [176]antioxidant capacity, reduces the sebum production, improves skin hydration, skin smoothing and softening, photoprotective, and anti-inflammatory effect [176,183,184,185,186,187]contact dermatitis [172] Chamomila recutita polysaccharides, flavonoids (α-bisabolol, apigenin), sesquiterpene lactones [169,176]anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity [188]
repairs the SC, wound healing, anti-ageing activity
skin smoothing and softening, also being used in the treatment of eczema [176,188,189]skin sensitization, contact dermatitis [169,189,190] Centella asiatica saponins, flavonoids (quercetin, kaempferol, apigenil, naringenin, phenolic acids (chlorogenic acid), triterpenic steroids, amino acids, sugars [191,192]antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing effect
stimulates the fibroblast proliferation, increasing the collagen synthesis
increases the SC hydration and the epidermal barrier function
anti-cellulite effect [191,192]local allergic reactions, burning, eczemas, vesicles, pruritus [192] Ceratonia siliqua flavonoids, phytosterols, acids, esters, terpenoids, fenolic compounds [193,194,195]anti-cellulite effect (increasing the aquaglyceroporines activity, stimulating lipolysis, reducing the localized fat overload), antioxidant capacity, depigmentation effect (anti-tyrosinase activity), skin lightening effect [193,194,196]non-irritation potential [193]Citrus sp.
(C. aurantium dulcis,
C. grandis,
C. limon,
C. unshiu peel)bergapten, bergamotin, isopimpinellin, coumarins, psoralenes, angelical, volatile oil (limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate, terpineol, terpinene, terpinolene, ocimene, pinene etc.) [197,198,199]antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and anti-verrucous effect, used in acne treatment, wound healing properties, used as fragrance [158,197,198,199]possible irritation, skin sensitization, hyperpigmentation, redness, oedema, photo-toxicity [197,198,199,200] Cucumis sativus flavonoids, saponins, sterols, carbohydrates, triterpenes, vitamins (C, B), fatty acid, proteins [201,202]used in the treatment of periorbital edema, soothing emollient, anti-wrinkle, anti-ageing, anti-itching effects depigmentant and antioxidant capacity, anti-hyaluronidase and anti-elastase actions [201]erythema after semi occlusive patch testing and conjunctival hyperemia/ocular irritation after a using of an eye lotion containing 1% C. sativus (cucumber) fruit extract [202]Cydonia oblonga seedcellulose, polysaccharides, polyphenols [203,204]stimulates fibroblasts proliferation, wound, and burns healing
maintains skin barrier function
anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and protective effects antioxidant capacity [203,204,205,206,207,208]* N Eclipta prostrata flavonoids (luteolin, apigenin), wedelolactone, terpenoids, sterols, alkaloids, volatile oils [209,210,211,212,213]depigmentant effect (anti-tyrosinase activity)
hair revitalizing, dye in cosmetic products
antioxidant and photoprotective capacity [209,210,211,212]* N Euphrasia officinalis iridoids, flavonoids, polyphenols, saponins, alkaloids, tannins, etheric oils [214,215]anti-inflammatory and astringent effect
antioxidant capacity
photo-protection, protective effect against photo-ageing, stimulates collagen synthesis [214,216,217]* N Ficus carica phytosterols, anthocyanins, amino acids, atty acids, phenolic acids, flavonoids, volatile components [218,219]antioxidant capacity, anti-warts and anti-verrucous activity
used in the treatment of dry skin, eczema, acne
anti-inflammatory, anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and skin protection effects [158,218,219,220]no side effects observed [220] Glycyrrhiza glabra saponins (glycyrrhizin), flavonoids (liquiritigenin, liquiritin), glycosides, isoflavons (glabridin, coumarins, stilbenoids) [221,222]anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity, photo-protection effect
reduces erythema and hyperpigmentation
improves epidermal hydration and transepidermal water loss
antibacterial and antifungal effect
anti-dandruff effect [221,222,223,224]eye sensitivity (burning, itch, redness), scalp pruritus (itch, dandruff) [221] Glycine max phenolic acids (ferulic, syringic, sinapic, flavonoids (isoflavons), soy proteins (β-conglycinin, glycinin), lipids, vitamin E [225,226,227]anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity
skin lightening and depigmentant
protective effect against photo-ageing
stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis, increasing the hyaluronic acid levels in aged skin
skin regeneration effect, providing nutrients for cell renewal [225,226,227,228,229,230,231]none allergic reactions to human skin toxicity evaluation [226,232]
itching eczema after several months of exposure to a soy-based ingredients in cosmetic lotions [233] Hedera helix saponins (hederin, hederagenin, hederacosides, hederacolchisides etc.), flavonoids, anthocyanins, coumarins and phenolic acids, steroids, vitamins, volatile and fixed oils [234]antiseptic, anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase effect indicated in cellulitis, cicatrisation, and wound healing [158,234,235]contact dermatitis [234] Lilium candidum saponins, flavonoids, glycosides, nitrogenous compounds [236,237]amelioration of skin redness, burn healing, hyperpigmentation, edema/skin inflammation
anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant effect, and also emollient and sebostatic effect
capacity of reducing ecchymosis, providing keratinocytes proliferation [158,236,238,239]no irritations in vitro dermal or ocular irritation model [240] Magnolia liliflora terpenes, flavonoids, chlorogenic acid, rutin, quercetin, kaempferol, volatile oil (phenyethyl alcohol, levoxine, pinene, caryophyllene oxide, caryophyllene, bourbonene, farnesene, aerpineol, humulene) [241,242,243]antioxidant capacity, anti-dermatophytes action, anti-inflammatory effect [241,242,243]* NMalus domestica/sylvestrispolyphenols (phloridizin, phloretin, quercetin, glycosides, rutin), acids (citric, malic, lactic, pyruvic, ascorbic etc.) [244,245,246]confers cell protection, anti-ageing and photoprotective effect, antioxidant capacity
increases moisture, reduces tyrosinase activity (depigmentation effect) [245,246,247,248]absence of skin irritation of a cosmetic product containing 6% Malus sylvestris fruit extract under 24 h occlusive patch testing [245] Malva sylvestris mucilaginous polysaccharides, tannins, polyphenols, vitamin C, vitamin E, β-carotene, anthocyanidines, terpenes, naphthoquinones, flavonoids, fatty acids (e.g., α-linolenic acid) and minerals [158,249,250,251,252,253,254,255]anti-pruritus, anti-psoriatic and antiseptic effect emollient, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial capacity
wound healing (stimulates the formation of free granulation tissue and reepithelization) [158,249,250,251,252,253,255]low toxicity of Malva sylvestris hydro-alcoholic extract on topical application [256] Nymphaea alba polyphenols, flavonoids, essential oil, vitamin E, ellagitannins, sterols, fatty acids [257,258,259]stimulates the autophagy (reduces the accumulation of advanced glycation end products which determine inflammatory response, destroys the protein structureand colors the skin in yellow or brown)
antioxidant and photo-protection capacity
reduces the hyperpigmentation [258,260]* N Opuntia cochenillifera flavonoids, terpenes, cellulose, hemicellulose, lignins, pectines, malic acid, citric acid, ascorbic acid, oligosaccharides (fructose, glucose, sucrose, maltose etc.), amino-acids, fatty-acids [261,262,263,264]antioxidant capacity, immunomodulation, hydration and cooling effects, wound healing [262,263]* NOrchid sp.flavonoids, anthocyanins, fatty acids, organic acids, sterols, stilbenoids (resveratrol), amino-acids [265,266,267]anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity, anti-tyrosinase activity, inhibits collagenase and elastase photo-protection, wound healing capacity
cooling agent
astringent, anti-ageing, emollient, skin moisturizing and whitening effect [265,266,268,269]allergic contact dermatitis [270] Pfaffia paniculata saponins (pfaffosides), pfaffic acid, sterols, allantoin [236,271]anti-inflammatory and anti-cellulite effect,
antioxidant capacity, protective effect against photo-ageing [236,271]* N Picea abies diterpene, stilbene glycosides (E-astringin, E-isorhapontin, flavonoids (catechin, taxifolin, taxifolin-3′-O-glucoside), lignin (pinoresinol) phenolic acid derivates, saccharose [272,273]antioxidant capacity, antibacterial activity
inhibits collagenase (anti-ageing activity), elastase (anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory and anti-psoriatic effect) and tyrosinase (whitening activity)
wound healing and skin regeneration properties (cellular regeneration and epithelialization) [272,273,274,275,276]possible allergic skin reactions (e.g., contact dermatitis) [276] Porphyridium cruentum exopolysaccharide, phycoerythrins, phycoerythrocyanins, phycocyanins, sterols, superoxide dismutase, polyunsaturated fatty acids [277,278,279]antioxidant capacity, anti-inflammatory, anti-redness effect
restores skin barrier permeability, photo-protection, regenerative and anti-wrinkles effect
natural dye for cosmetics (creams, powders, lipsticks, make-up, eye shadows) [278,279,280,281,282]* N Ptychopetalum olacoides fatty acids, saponins, flavonoids (rutin), sterols, aromatic oil, alkaloids, lupeol [236,283]antioxidant capacity,
anti-cellulite effect [236]* N Punica granatum anthocyanins, ellagic acid, tannins [176]improves viscoelasticity,
anti-ageing effect,
anti-inflammatory and antioxidant capacity
antimicrobial activity [176,284,285]no adverse effects [286]Rosa sp.
(R. damascena,
R. canina,
R. centifolia,
R. davurica,
R. mosqueta,
R. rugosa)carotenoids, sterols, anthocyanins, catechins, polyphenolic compounds (tocopherol), vitamin C, fatty acids (trans-retinoic acid, arachidonic acid, and unsaturated fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids) [287,288]anti-inflammatory effect (suppressing proinflammatory cytokines) [289,290,291,292]
antibacterial against skin bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes) [289,290,291,292,293]
antioxidant capacity [290,292,294]
antiproliferative and chemopreventive effects [290]
fragrance in the perfumery industry [295]well tolerate [296]
no toxicity on human keratinocyte HaCaT cells [289]
contact dermatitis to Rosa mosqueta oil applied for 3 days [288] Rosmarinus officinalis triterpes (rosmarinic acid, oleanolic acid, ursolic acid) [172,297]antioxidant capacity, photoprotective effect,
anti-aging, wound healing, anti-inflammatory, increases skin elasticity, wrinkles reducing effect [157,297,298]eczema, contact dermatitis [172,299] Rubus chamaemorus ellagitannins, proanthocyanidins, fenolic acids, flavonoids, lignans, vitamin C, fatty acids (oleic, linoleic, linolenic etc.) [300]antioxidant capacity
antimicrobial effect (Staphylococcus aureus skin infections)
reduces periorbital inflammations and ameliorates pruritus [300,301]no irritation after an 48 h occlusive patch testin of a cosmetic product incorporating 2.5% Rubus chamaemorus Seed Oil (25 μL testing product quantity) [302] Saccharum officinarum fatty acids, fatty alcohols, acids, esters, aldehydes, ketones, sterols, terpoides, phenolic acids, flavonoids (flavones glycosides) [303,304,305]antioxidant capacity, anti-tyrosinase activity
photo-protection effect [304,305]low toxicity after in vitro cytotoxicity assay [304] Sambucus nigra phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, ferulic, rosmarinic), flavonoids (quercetin, rutin, kaempferol), anthocyanins, tannins, triterpenes, organic acids [306,307,308]antioxidant capacity, reduces tyrosinase activity antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-psoriatic, photoprotective effects [306,307,308,309,310,311,312]* NSideritis sp.
(S. perfoliata,
S. raeseri)terpenes, phenolic compounds (flavonoids, phenylpropanid glycosides), tannins [313,314,315,316,317]antioxidant capacity, anti-elastase, anti-melanin and anti-tyrosinase activity (anti-wrinkle and depigmentation effect)
anti-inflammatory and antibacterial capacity
photo-protection effect [313,314,316,317]* N Sophora japonica flavonoids (rutin, quercetin etc.), tripterpenoids, alkaloids, saponins, polysaccharides [318,319,320]antioxidant capacity, photo-protection, anti-melanin and anti-tyrosinase activity (skin-whitening) [318,319,320,321]* N Triticum aestivum oligosaccharides [322]stimulates hyaluronan synthase, fibronectin synthesys, restores the skin barrier integrity (wound healing: decubitus ulcers, skin lesions and burns), anti-inflammatory effect, antioxidant capacity [322,323,324,325]possible hypersensitivity reactions [326] Ulmus davidiana saccharides (galactose, rhamnose, glucose), succinic acid, terpenoids (epifriedenalol), lignans, flavonoids (catechin) [327,328,329]moisturizing, photoprotective, anti-ageing, anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effect [327,328]* N Vaccinium myrtillus anthocyanins (cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin), flavonoids, phenolic acids [330]antioxidant capacity, photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effect (anti-psoriatic, anti-erythematous),
astringent properties,
wound healing, restores and protects the skin barrier function [330,331,332,333,334,335]* N Vitis vinifera polyphenols (resveratrol, anthocyanins), coumarn, carotenoids, flavonoids, tartaric acid, tannins, terpene alcohols [336,337,338]anti-ageing effect,
antioxidant capacity,
anti-melanogenic activities,
sunscreen protection [157,176,338,339]allergic dermatitis [336,340] Voandzeia subterranean alkaloids, flavonoids, glycosides, saponins, steroids, triterpenoids, phenols, anthocyanins, carotenoids
proteins, crude fiber, carbohydrates [341,342]anti-wrinkle effects, photoprotective, anti-irritant, anti-pollution, hydrating effects,
antioxidant capacity,
anti-ageing activity, inhibits proteases, elastases, collagenases and catalase [343]* N

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